Articles

Determining Crate Size

Tue, 22 Apr 2008 18:05:20 -0400

There are a lot of crates on the market. The bottom line is generally you get what you pay for. Much of the crate sizing literature says “only buy a crate big enough for your dog to stand up and turn around.” However, rather than buying a puppy crate and then an adult crate we suggest buying one crate that will be big enough for the pup as an adult. The crates that we suggest are large enough for that. The pups understand this is where they sleep which will go hand in hand with crate training for house (toilet) training. We prefer the closed in crates for three reasons.
They last longer since there construction is strong plastic.
They clean up easy if there is an accident.
They are airline accepted, and
They provide some protection and personal space for your companion. Below are two crates that we have used and find particularly worthy of mention.

Sky Kennel #200
27"L x 20"W x 19"H with handle.
Crate weighs: 15 Lbs
available on-line from  http://www.skykennelsupply.com/skykennel-en.htm

Approximate cost $50.00

Ferrari Kennel #250
27"L x 19.5"W x 19"H with handle
Crate weighs: 20 Lbs
available on line (google search for local distributor)

Price ranges from $75.00 to $100.00
This will last for YEARS!

It is true that some dogs prefer the open wire crates. These offer much better air circulation for hot weather. They are not airline accepted. They are a good alternative for home use. Canvas crates are great to travel with but they are made of material and don’t clean up nearly as well as plastic!

Here is minimum size that would fit your dog for airline travel. We suggest that you go one size up from this.

IMPORTANT TIPS FOR MEASURING YOUR PET
The following measurements should be done on the animal standing in a natural position. A = length of animal from nose to root of tail. B = height from ground to elbow joint. A + 1/2 B = length of container. C = width across shoulders. C x 2 = width of container. D = height of container (top flat or arched)/height of animal in standing position. * This chart gives average size usage only. If you are not sure, go up at least one size.  (Please allow an additional 1.5 inches for comfort and safety of the animal.)

Fencing to Keep Your Dog Safe

Mon, 24 Mar 2008 19:06:01 -0400

Why fence the yard? The purpose of fencing a play area for your dog is so that it has a safe place to be off lead and play. What ever is in that fenced dog area should be safe for him to play with. This is all within your ability to control. Keeping your dog safe means not only that your dog can’t get out of the fenced area but also nor can anything get in to harm him. This fenced area is also great when your dog needs to go to the bathroom in the middle of the night so that you don’t have to go out with him. Ideally, from the door or a window you can see the entire fenced area. It should also be lighted at night for the same purpose.

How high? While you only need a three foot fence to keep a Norwich in, typically if you put in a chain link permanent fence the size most often chosen is a four foot height. That extra foot gives a bit of added protection from predators. If you live in the vicinity of coyotes or wolves that may not be high enough. In some more rural areas the taller deer fencing is ideal. For the city or suburbs though a four foot fence is plenty.

What about “Invisible Fencing” or “Radio Fencing?” Yes, invisible fencing will keep most dogs inside the designate area. Initially the invisible fence line is flagged for the dog to see. The way it works is, as the dog nears the invisible fence a beep goes off warning him that he is approaching. If he gets closer the dog gets a mild but very startling shock. If you ever touched an electric cattle fence as a child or simply got a good static shock that is similar...we tried it ourselves. There are some dogs that can charge through and simply ignore the shock of the collar. This is a problem for dogs with a high prey drive that will chase anything. The first problem is that once your dog is out of the invisible fence you can be sure that he won’t brave the shock to come back in. Next, the batteries do require regular replacement for the collar to work properly. The collar also needs to be correctly fitted for the contacts to work. The biggest problem s that invisible fencing may keep your dog in, but it keeps nothing out. The neighbours children, other roving dogs (good or bad), skunks, coyotes, wolves, or other predators will not notice the invisible fence and your dog is stuck inside it with no place to hide. We do not recommend invisible fencing.

What is an affordable alternative to chain link fencing? Chain link is usually a permanent fence. It is long lasting and very secure. For a large area it can be costly. An affordable and effective alternative is rolls of welded and galvanized deer or field fencing. The height should be at least three feet tall and the squares about 2’’ x 4’’. You’ll need a post about every 8 feet to keep it secure.

Kibble Dog Foods - What is Best?

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 17:42:22 -0400

Kibble - Are there any brands that are better than others if I intend to feed Kibble?
Yes. You do get what you pay for but you also need to know a little about what to look for. In a perfect world the protein source is organic. The protein sources should be higher than 50% of the total content of the food. There should be very few or no cereals, or grains...these are just fillers. We think the following kibble foods provide a decent diet:
Orijen
Nature's Variety
Innova EVO
Despite that you may intend to feed commercial kibble there are still benefits of feeding your companion fresh, human grade additives including vegetables, or the vitamin supplements listed in our Wildgoose diet above.
You should also be aware that there are a number of commercially pre-prepared raw dog foods available from the freezer section of better dog food stores. They also come in a freeze dried format. Brand names include Nature's Variety, Oma's Pride and many more. They come in frozen patties that you thaw prior to your dog consuming the food. Frozen they keep for a long while. Thawed they should be fine refrigerated for 2-3 days. Many of these foods are available from the internet delivered to your door if you can not find them locally.
There is also a dog food comparison chart that may be of some assistance in your quest DOG FOOD COMPARISON CHARTS

What is Really in Pet Food?

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 17:39:50 -0400

We want the best for our dogs and that includes all our dogs to lead a healthy, long and quality life. Aside from providing a good home, and vet care when necessary, topping the list is nutrition.
Have a read of this article and you'll find out what is really in many of the commercial pet foods. This isn't for the faint hearted. Read: What is Really in Pet Food
Today’s medical journals provide proof that feeding processed, singular diets without offering variety or fresh food can lead to such health issues as allergies, digestive problems, and even degenerative conditions. Kibble has been a relatively recent "invention" as dog food. Kibble was developed for the convenience of the dog care giver, not the dog's nutritional needs.
It's well-known that cooking, especially at extremely high temperatures, depletes nutrients found in natural food. Many of the ingredients in processed dog and cat foods require grinding, boiling, re-processing and more boiling in order to sterilize them or make them edible.  This is especially the case with meat by-products and meat meal, often the primary source of protein in commercial pet foods. Even if these ingredients are all natural or organic, the processing significantly reduces the nutritional value to your pet.  Whether you choose an entirely raw, homemade diet or a commercial dog food, it is important to ensure you are getting the right mix of all of the nutrients your pet needs.
Our research of the best nutrition for our dogs always comes back to diet that is human grade (best quality) and fresh. That is not any different than what we want for ourselves. There are hundreds of Biologically Appropriate Raw Food or Bones and Raw Food (BARF) diets that people follow. What we will describe below is what has worked best for us over a number of years. BARF is not for everyone but it is the best that you can give your dog provided that it is done correctly. Done incorrectly it can be more damaging than a poor quality kibble. To that end we have laid out in detail a basic diet that we have used for some time now. We do make changes as we learn new things from scientific studies, holistic vets and breeder's experiences with Norfolk and Norwich Terriers.

Vitamins

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 17:35:54 -0400

Vitamins - Essential to Compliment a BARF Diet
Proper nutrition is the foundation of health. Without enough nutrients the body begins to deteriorate and resistance to disease is lowered. Taking charge of your dog’s health means being informed on the subject of nutrition, supplements and general health.
This article will deal with vitamins. This information is provided for educational purposes and to help you make the correct decisions regarding your dog's health. It is not intended to diagnose or prescribe for your dog. The suggested dosages are for healthy adult dogs weighing 9 to 18 pounds. This information is what I do for my dogs. Wildgoose Norfolk and Norwich Terriers does not accept liability for the use of this information in lieu of the services of a holistic veterinarian. Remember that all things in life have varying degrees of risk. What is right for one may not be right for the other.
Even if you use the best commercial food available there is still the need to supplement for optimum health. Vitamins and minerals must be fed in the right balance to work properly. Feeding just one vitamin is relatively useless. Sometimes doing nothing can be worst of all. The information below was predominantly derived from Wendell O. Bellfield D.V.M. and Martin Zucker, “How to have a Healthier Dog: The Benefits of Vitamins and Minerals for Your Dog’s Life Cycles.” New York, NY: New American Library, 1981.   It is just one perspective.
Vitamin C is a good place to start. Vitamin C is perhaps the only vitamin that could be used in isolation. Dogs produce about 40 milligrams of C per kilogram (=2.2 lbs) of body weight per day and most pet food companies do not add it to their food. This is only a fraction of what is actually needed. Research indicates a number of pet diseases to be forms of sub clinical scurvy, the deficiency of vitamin C. This includes hip dysplasia, lameness, arthritis, spinal myelopathy, ruptured discs, viral diseases and skin problems.
Vitamin C is the basic to all life processes and necessary for a sound system. Vitamin C regulates the dog’s body biochemical balance and is the body’s major detoxifier and repairer of the damages of stress.
Calcium ascorbate powder is suggested as the best form and is lowest in acidic taste.   500 mg (=1/8 teaspoon) per day is suggested.
Vitamin A deficiency can be the cause of a number of skin, coat and mucous membrane problems in dogs. These include lung and respiratory tract; eye membrane; bladder lining; teeth and gums; digestive tract; and the layers that comprise the skin and glandular system. Like vitamin C and E, A is an anti-oxidant.   It is also necessary for the development and growth of puppies and aids the immune system protect from infection.
Dry, itching skin is the first indicator of a vitamin deficiency. In dogs, deficiency symptoms include degeneration, reproductive failure, night blindness, uncoordination, seizures, failure to gain weight and deafness. Vitamin A is largely overlooked by commercial pet foods.
The suggested dose is 10,000 IU once a week. Significant skin problems may require more. I have read that a maximum of 10,000 IU per day for a short period, in some cases can be used. To avoid toxicity, you should consult a holistic vet if you think you need more than 10,000 IU per week.
Vitamin D. 400 IU per week of Vitamin D is recommended. That is sufficient for healthy teeth and bones. Since D is produced by the sun, it is the winter months or dogs that don’t get outside much that require this supplement. Lack of calcium and phosphorous are also indicators of a need for Vitamin D.
This vitamin regulates the thyroid and nervous system, heart , skin , respiration and blood clotting. Rickets is a deficiency of D. Symptoms of D deficiency are allergies, kidney and urinary disorder, diarrhea, arthritis, poor metabolism, poorly developed bones, muscles or teeth and irritability.
Vitamin E is essential for healing diseases of the circulatory system and preventing them, including heart tachycardia and arteriosclerosis. It promotes fertility, slows ageing prevents cataracts, boosts the immune system, protects the body against pollutants and cancer and helps heal the skin. It also boosts muscle power in dogs. It helps dissolve tumours and relieves posterior paralysis and disc problems. It oxygenates the blood and improves the function of the internal organs. The suggested dose is 100 IU per day.
B Complex Vitamins are necessary for the proper functioning of the brain and nervous system. Generally, B vitamins reduce pain and protect the body from stress. They are required for emotional and mental health; energy; immune system and infection fighting ability; nervous system health; the proper functioning of skin, hair, eyes, liver, muscles and digestion. B vitamins are water soluble and cannot be overdosed. The suggested dose of B complex is 25 mg per day.
In health terms, you are only going to get out what you put in. Vitamin supplements are only a small part of the whole package that needs to be considered for optimum health.

What We Feed at Wildgoose  and a little about Vitamins

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 17:31:02 -0400

On a farm, dogs don't eat alfalfa, wheat, oats, corn or any other grains as a mainstay of their diet. They will nibble in a bucket of grain once in a great while and only primarily out of curiosity or boredom. Dogs eat protein in the form of meats and eggs.
We have been feeding our Norwich and Norfolk bones and raw food for the last 6 years and we have found a noticeable positive difference in the general health of the the dogs in every respect.
Our raw diet is essentially (by weight) - Updated as of 3 January 2006: 
40% uncooked meat (50% meat and 50% bones);
25% uncooked vegetables;
12.5% dairy ( which can be either plain yogurt or kefir for the beneficial enzymes);
12.5% organ meat; and
10% fruit (banana, apple, cranberry, melon, kiwi, etc)
The meat source includes the bone. We grind most things with a simple home electric grinder so that they don't choke on bones that might be too big. We use turkey, lamb, and fish (mackerel mostly) as our preferred protein sources because they are less acidic than beef, chicken, or other fowl. We rotate the meat source so it is not always the same. Organ meats are great (tripe, heart, liver, offal). For the vegetables we usually make a puree of a few different ones (carrots, zucchini, pumpkin, green beans, broccoli, parsley, etc). Organic meat and vegetable sources are the best!
Mix all the food above (meat, vegetables, dairy, organ meats and fruit) into a container. You can freeze this in any quantities that you like. We sometimes use ice cube trays for portions. The mix will keep in the fridge for a few days.   You now have a complete home prepared food for your dogs!
Here are a number of things that one can add to diets (with explanations) for variety and rotation sake. Dietary Additions
In addition to good food we also recommend daily supplements to round out the best diet that we can provide for our dogs. We supplement daily with:
Wild Salmon oil - 1000 mg per day. This is a great source of Omega 3 and 6. Wild is much better than cultivated salmon oil. We do alternate with other fish oils like "Arctic Vigor" (dose is 1/4 teaspoon). We don't use flax seed oil because there are some studies that indicate dogs get itchy from it, despite that it is a good source of Omega 3 and 6;
B Complex - 25 mg per day;
Vitamin C - 500 mg per day, 1000 to 1,500 mg for pregnant bitches;
Vitamin E - 200 IU per day;
Selenium - 50 mg per day; and
MSM, Chondroitin, Glucosamine - in one pill for joint care (glucosamine alone is for arthritis only). The dosage size we use is approximately 500mg/day.
We also alternate MSM, Chondroitin, Glucosamine sometimes with a product called "Synovicare". (You can find this on the internet by doing a search for the product name.) Synovicare is a combination of Glucosamine, Chondroitin Sulfate, MSM, Vitamin C, and Devil's Claw.   It was originally a horse supplement but many dog owners are using it too! Chondroitin Sulfate is a specific PSGAG (building block) in joint cartilage and is comprise of a long chain of sugars. Its chemical structures helps to create a watery, shock-absorbing space within cartilage tissue, enhancing the fluid protections within the joint system and resulting in better lubrication and nutrient transport. Studies have shown Chondroitin to be effective in reducing synovitis and alleviating symptoms of arthritis in people and dogs. It is considered a non-toxic compound and using it over extended periods of time has resulted in no appreciable side effects. Reports further indicate the combining it with Glucosamine produces better joint fluid quality (clear with higher viscosity) and overall joint health than either substance alone. The Glucosamine simulates the production of cartilage, provide lubrication and helps to reduce pain and inflammation. Chondroitin compliments Glucosamine as it boosts cartilage synthesis, promotes cellular nourishment and contributes to joint protection. It also works by directly inhabiting the enzymes that destroy cartilage, allowing the rebuilding process to proceed. Vitamin C is a powerful anti-oxidant that helps to increase the bio-availability of the other ingredients. Devil's Claw is a herb with anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties that has been used for centuries to treat arthritis. Together these ingredients work to protect your dogs important joint functions.
Another alternative for MSM, Chondroitin, Glucosamine we recommend is "Run Free" for some more variety. Run Free uses a combination of glucosamine & shark cartilage to aid in repairing and rebuilding damaged joints while the addition of flaxseed, a powerful anti-inflammatory, Vitamin C , & MSM will decrease inflammation and pain and allow healing to occur.
Can't find a supplement? Try a search using www.google.com. Here are a couple of sites that might help:
www.thewholisticpet.com  www.evitamins.com  www.thevitaminshoppe.com

Does your Dog have a Correct Bite

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 17:28:01 -0400

Dental health is important for your dog. Below are the four basic bites that your dog could have. The healthy and correct bite is a scissor bite. Your dog should also have the right number of teeth to help him chew his food. Next time you are at your vet’s ask him to have a look at your dog’s bite, just to be sure. Your vet should do this as part of his annual exam.
You can actually brush your dog's teeth! There are doggie tooth brushes that are available at pet stores. Use doggie toothpaste, not human toothpaste. Twice a week is the suggested frequency for brushing. Alternatively, you can use a medical gauze pad with your finger. The tartar that builds on the incisors can often be removed with your finger nail. Ask your vet to show you. Tartar accumulation, just like on humans, can lead to periodontal problems and bad breath. Another alternative to help keep teeth clean is letting your dog chew beef bones, large enough that they can not be swallowed. You can get raw bones from your butcher. Never feed small or cooked pork or chicken bones. They are prone to splintering that can be dangerous to your dog.
 

Normal scissors bite, notice the midline of upper and lower jaws are aligned
Normally, the lower canine should intersect the upper lateral incisor and upper canine

Boarding Your Dog

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 17:22:57 -0400

Boarding Your Dog

There are occasions when it is simply not practical to take your Norwich with you on vacation. So you need to find someone to care for your dog. The best option is an in home doggie sitter but they are often hard to find. The next option is of course a boarding kennel. Here is what to look for a good kennel:
Design: The kennel should have indoor/outdoor runs, all fenced or inside housing areas with separate outdoor exercise areas. The primary area where your Norwich sleeps should have solid dividers between doggie visitors to prevent “fence fighting” and allow your dog to relax and sleep in without feeling challenged or threatened.
Cleanliness: The kennel must be tidy and free of dirt and most importantly fecal accumulation for the health safety of your prized pet.
Safety: Ask how often the kennel staff checks the animals.
Exercise: At enclosed kennels the staff should walk dogs at least three times daily.
Nutrition: Bring your own food. While many kennels provide their own food, it is one less thing that needs to be changed from your dog’s routine.
Immunization: Your pet’s immunizations must be up to date, including Bordatella (kennel cough). If the kennel isn’t asking you for proof of up to date immunizations they likely aren’t asking others.
Kennel Staff Attitude: If you don’t get a good vibe from the kennel and staff you are probably best to go elsewhere. You should always visit a kennel before you commit to leaving your dog. It is worth the peace of mind to know your Norwich is safe and in good hands so that you too can enjoy your vacation.

Digging - They love to Dig

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 17:19:31 -0400

Digging is a very natural behaviour for Terriers.   Not only are they genetically predisposed to digging, some do it out of boredom or anxiety. While this is a very normal behaviour you may consider it unacceptable in your back yard, flower gardens or under fences.
Dogs left outside for long periods of time on their own will dig out of boredom or to burn off energy. More often than not, they are not interested in exercising on their own nor are they interested in playing on their own. So they dig. If your dog is digging under the fence to escape, either the environment outside your yard is much more interesting to your dog than the yard or he is attempting to escape the isolation of the yard and get to you, the owner.   Your dog may also be digging simply to find a cool spot to lay in the hot summer months or he may find interesting things buried. Sometimes it is just plain fun.
If your dog usually starts digging after half an hour on his own, bring him inside after 25 minutes. It’s often easier to teach a dog appropriate behaviour in the house than to correct the problem behaviours, like digging, which occurs when you are not present.
You may wish to provide your Terrier with an acceptable area to dig, satisfying the dog and saving the rest of your yard. The designated digging area can be a sandbox or plastic kiddie pool filled with dirt. Teach your dog to dig in the designated area by showing him the area and have him watch you bury some treasures (treats, food, toys) there. Bury them shallow initially and help your dog dig them up. Once he gets the idea you can bury them deeper and eventually he’ll go to his digging spot as a matter of habit. The key to keep him out of digging up the rest of they yard is by keeping the digging area stocked with treasures so he’ll have no reason to dig elsewhere.
You should also be prepared to spend some time with him outside to redirect him so that he does not return to his old stomping ground. If you actually see him digging in an inappropriate area, you can give him a verbal command such as, “Sandbox” and direct him to his treat filled area. Don’t forget to praise him when he is excavating a treasure you have buried for him in an appropriate area.
Never punish your dog for digging. Never show him the hole and punish him. He will simply not understand why he is being punished and you may ruin your opportunity to encourage appropriate digging in his sandbox. What he may do is simply dig when you are not around to watch. Reward the positive behaviour and ignore the negative actions.
If your dog is digging under fences or by doors to escape the yard, the sandbox may not work. An in tact male may be searching for a female in heat. The neighbourhood may be more interesting than your back yard. Try taking him on regular walks. It will expend some energy and he may be more content to stay at home. Playing games with your dog in the yard will also exercise your dogs muscles and mind.    Contrary to popular belief, dogs generally do not exercise on their own in the back yard…they need interaction with you.
Some dogs dig thinking that they will get to you. This is separation anxiety. In this case do not leave your dog alone in the yard if you are not at home. Bring your dog inside before the digging behaviour starts.
When all else fails, you can try and make the areas where you don’t want your dog to dig as unpleasant as possible. Try burying pinecones or something that will not feel pleasant on the dog’s feet when digging, but will not hurt him. Burying your dog’s feces in the holes will likely discourage digging since dogs are generally clean animals and do not like to touch their feces.
With a little time and consistency in training you should be able to share your yard in harmony with your dog.

Barking: Breaking the Barking Cylcle and Bark Collars

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 17:12:30 -0400

Fact: all dogs bark, some more than others. The key to stopping your dog from barking is to break the barking cycle. Many dogs respond to the command “NO BARK” and you give the dog a cookie to chew on. Since your dog can’t eat a cookie and bark you have broken the cycle. The cookie is positive reinforcement of your command. The theory is your dog hears your “NO BARK” command, stops barking, waits for his cookie and the nuisance barking cycle is broken. With training, your command should consistently break nuisance barking and you don’t have to follow with a cookie except occasionally to reinforce the training.

Assuming that you have not had success with training to curb unnecessary barking, bark collars provides a trouble-free solution to problem barking. Surprisingly, not all neighbors find your dog barking as music to their ears. A bark collar is a very effective method, at a reasonable cost, to control unwanted barking. If the alternatives are to surgically de-bark your dog, or have to move or the unthinkable, that you’d have to part with your dog, this is a very easy solution to a problem that can be frustrating.
There are a few collars on the market. What you must know up front is that they are safe, simple and effective. Believe it or not but I have tried a collar on myself to make sure that it is humane. It is nothing more than a static shock that breaks the bark cycle. Please note that bark collars should not be left on your dog all the time.
How most of the collars work. The collar responds only to the vibration on the neck generated from a bark. Your dog barks and an audible “beep, beep, beep” warning goes off. If your dog barks a second time within 30 seconds from the initial bark there is a static shock from a 6-volt battery. The collar resets itself after 30 seconds of no barking, back to the warning beep for an initial bark. You can adjust the bark collar to the necessary sensitivity of the bark as well, since all dogs are somewhat different. Some models have levels of correction. The model we used only had one level. Again, I have tried it on myself and the correction will not hurt or endanger your pet in any way. The only problem we had was the adjustable collar was not adjustable to the small neck of a Norfolk. To work properly the collar must be snug, not tight. We simply re-stitched the collar in a few minutes work to make it the right size. After the dog has had the collar on a few times you don’t even need to have the battery in anymore!
There are other collars available (but I have not personally tried them all). A different brand bark collar, the “HUSH! PUPPY,” emits a safe, high frequency sound pulse, which disrupts your dog’s barking sequence. An electronic timing circuit ensures that it doesn’t go off at rapid alarm or intruder-type barking. You can adjust sensitivity and stimulus controls to meet your dog’s individual needs. The manufacturer claims it is approved by veterinarians and animal behaviorists as one of the safest and most effective methods of controlling barking. It uses a 9-volt battery which of course is not included and is recommended for dogs under 40lbs. Collar fits all sizes 2 3/4"w x 1 1/2"h x 1 1/4"d.
The last type of bark collar emits a citronella smell when barking is detected. Dogs are not supposed to like the smell and as a result it is suppose to break the cycle of barking once the smell is released. I’m not sure how effective this is and more important, I have strong reservations about spraying any dog with a foreign substance.

Winter Care Tips

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 16:26:47 -0400

Winter cold brings many concerns for responsible Norwich owners. Here are some precautions to be mindful of:
Don’t leave your dog out in the cold for too long. Wind-chill makes the days colder than actual temperature readings.
Adequate shelter is necessary. Keep your dog warm, dry and away from drafts.
Be extra careful when walking your dog near frozen lakes, rivers and ponds. Your dog could slip or jump in and get seriously injured.
Groom your dog regularly. A well groomed coat keeps him properly insulated. Consider a doggie sweater or coat for extreme temperatures. Trim the excess hair from under and between the pads the ease snow and ice collection.
Feed your dog additional calories if he spends a lot of time out doors. It takes more calories in the winter to keep the body temperature regulated, so more calories are needed.
Towel or blow-dry your dog if he gets wet from rain or snow. Keep the pads clean and dry to avoid cracked pads, which can be quite painful. Petroleum jelly is a good protector, which helps soften the pads and prevent further cracking.
Don’t leave your dog alone in the car. The cold creeps in quickly. If the car is left running, carbon monoxide could endanger your dog.
Rock salt used on roads and sidewalks may irritate your dog’s paws. Rinse off paws after walking.
Be very careful with supplementary heat sources. Fireplaces and heaters can burn your dog. Ensure that fireplaces have screens and portable heaters are out of reach.
Provide plenty of fresh water. Your dog is just as likely to dehydrate in the winter as in the summer. Snow is not a satisfactory substitute for water.

Canine Obesity

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 15:38:15 -0400

Norfolk and Norwich Terriers are relatively easy to overfeed. They are always at your feet when food is being prepared. Don't be fooled by them telling you they are starving!
The main causes of canine obesity are overfeeding and insufficient exercise. Owners should be aware that maintaining fitness and agility, just like for humans, is very important for a beloved pet. Many veterinarians believe canine obesity is the greatest health issue facing our pets. Studies now indicate that obesity can reduce a dogs lifespan by 3 years less then fit dogs!
The following health concerns may occur as a result of obesity:
Joint or locomotion difficulties ... Extra pounds put added stress on joints, bones, ligaments and muscles. Conditions such as arthritis, hip dysplasia, disk disease and ligament ruptures may be caused or aggravated by obesity.
Heart and Respiratory Disease ... Heart and lungs have to work harder to provide adequate oxygen and circulation. Also, extra fat in the chest cavity and around the heart muscle can decrease the efficiency of the heart and lungs.
Diabetes ... Just like people, diabetes is much more common in obese dogs and cats.
Liver Disease ... Obese animals are prone to liver disease.
Heat Intolerance ... Insulating properties of excessive fat make obese animals uncomfortable and unable to tolerate heat.
Skin Problems ... Obese animals often have trouble grooming themselves. The rolls of skin built up by fat deposits can often harbor dirt, bacteria and other harmful organisms.
Gastrointestinal Disorder ... Pancreatitis is seen all too often in obese dogs. This condition is painful and life threatening.
Obesity in dogs is totally controllable by responsible owners when you consider that we control everything that goes into their mouths. The cause of obesity is simple: Intake of dietary energy exceeds expenditure of energy. Unless there is a medical reason, there is really no excuse for morbid obesity in a dog.
How do I check if my dog is overweight?
Correct weight has everything to do with body type. Norfolk and Norwich, according to the written standard should weigh 10-12 pounds (5 kg). However some body types carry more weight and some less.
To evaluate your dog's weight, the abdomen should be tucked up when the dog is viewed from the side and a prominent "waist" visible behind the ribs when the dog is viewed from the top. Place your hands on either side of your dog's chest. Individual ribs should be easily felt but not seen. If the ribs protrude or are visible, your dog is too thin; if pressure is required to feel the ribs, your dog is overweight.

My dog is too fat what do I do?
Remember that dieting alone will not ensure that your companion will lose weight. The other component is exercise. Combining a good 20 minutes a day of exercise, walking, running, swimming, playing fetch are good ways to get the exercise needed. However, being left in the yard to play is NOT exercise!
While you may prefer to change the food your dog eats to something less caloric I would suggest that you don't change the food but rather feed less. Simply reduce the amount by 1/3 per feeding and in two weeks you should see some weight loss...provided you are also exercising your dog. If you don't see any weight loss in two weeks you can reduce the daily feeding by a third again. The greatest failure in dieting dogs is with giving dog cookies that are often highly caloric. Instead substituted dog cookies for a healthy alternative like a piece of carrot or other vegetables.
Lets recap...If your dog is fat:  - Reduce the amount of food you are giving him. - Add some exercise to his life a few times a week. - Choose healthy alternatives for snacks.
The end result is a happier, healthier companion dog with a higher quality of life for a longer period of time.
Links to sites on Canine Obesity
http://www.canismajor.com/dog/obese.html http://vetmedicine.about.com/cs/dogdiseaseso/a/dogobesity.htm http://www.caninesports.com/fatdogs.html http://www.csp.org.uk/physiotherapy/features/canine_health.cfm http://www.seniordogrescue.org/Obesity.htm

Three Good Reasons to Spay/Neuter your Dog

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 15:31:29 -0400

The first is health. Spaying your female reduces or eliminates the risk of mammary and reproductive organ cancers, as well as false pregnancies, uterine infections and hormonal imbalances. There are no heat cycles and fewer health problems. Neutering your male lowers the risks of certain types of cancer and other health concerns. The health benefits from spaying and neutering are too important to ignore.  The second reason is behavioral. Neutered males are calmer and less apt to challenge other dogs and people, especially children who may be perceived as lower in position in the doggie's social group. They are also less likely to roam. Spayed females are more comfortable not having to deal with their heat cycles.
The third is reproductive control. Since you likely don't plan on showing your dog, there is probably no reason to breed your dog. Leave breeding to the responsible breeders who understand genetics, care and placement. With millions of unwanted dog being put to sleep each year for lack of good homes, spaying or neutering your dog will make you a responsible owner.
There are many advocates of "Early age neuter/spay" for the reasons sited above. Early age neuter/spays are being performed by vets and at many humane shelters in dogs as young as 7 weeks of age. Studies have shown dogs neutered at this age have faster anesthetic recoveries and fewer operative complications compared to animals neutered at 7 months of age. Additionally, no adverse medical or behavioral complications have been noted when the animals were evaluated up to a year after surgery.
Unfortunately, early-age neutering is also associated with several medical problems including long-term negative effects that may impact the dog's health and behavior as it reaches middle age. There is more an more evidence suggesting that early spay of females increases the likelihood of incontinence problems thereafter.
In a recent study by Dr. Spain from Cornell University, owners of 1,842 dogs were surveyed 4 months to 11 years after their adopted pets had been neutered to see if the dog's age at the time of surgery had any effect on the pet's well-being. Dr. Spain and his colleagues identified benefits as well as disadvantages with neutering very young animals.
The Benefits
Most of the benefits of early-age neutering were behavioral. Dogs that were spayed or castrated at less than 5.5 months of age:
were much more likely to remain a permanent part of their adopted families.
were less likely to roam or to escape from their homes or yards.
can also reduce aggression in male dogs.
The Risks
Dr. Spain and colleagues also found that male and female dogs neutered at a younger age:
had an increased risk of developing parvovirus soon after the surgery.
were more likely to develop signs of hip arthritis as they got older. (This may be because dogs neutered at a young age tend to have longer legs, possibly causing some joint problems as they get older).
Female dogs had an increased risk of bladder infections and urinary incontinence, especially if they were spayed before 3 months of age.
So, when should you spay/neuter your puppy?
No one knows the perfect age for neutering pets, so recommendations are usually based on the individual and the breed. The traditional age for neutering is around 6 months of age and many veterinarians still recommend neutering at this age. The benefits of neutering (both health and behavioral) can still be obtained regardless of the age at which neutering is performed.
We recommend that you neuter your male dog at 12 months of age. Dogs neutered before puberty (generally age 6 months) tend to grow a bit bigger than dogs neutered after puberty (testosterone is involved in the causing bones to stop growing so without testosterone the bones stop growing later). Since Norwich Terriers are not aggressive breeds early neutering is not required for this reason. Female dogs are more likely to have chronic problems if neutered at a very young age, but should be spayed at 6 months of age, before their first heat cycle, to reduce the risk of mammary tumor development.
What Behavioral Changes can be expected after Neutering/Spay?
For the male, the only behavior changes that are observed after neutering relate to behaviors influenced by male hormones. Playfulness, friendliness, and socialization with humans are not changed. The behaviors that change are far less desirable. The interest in roaming is eliminated in 90% of neutered dogs. Aggressive behavior against other male dogs is eliminated in 60% of neutered dogs. Urine marking is eliminated in 50% of neutered male dogs. Inappropriate mounting is eliminated in 70% of neutered dogs.
The female dog's reproductive tract is dormant for most of the year. It only activates for the three week period of heat. This means that from a behavioral stand point, the female dog acts spayed most of the time. It is unlikely that any change will be evident.
Our experience with our dogs has shown that activity level and appetite do not change with neutering/spaying. A male or female dog should not gain weight or become less interested in activity post neuter/spay.
Neutered dogs interest will be reduced in females but if he is around a female dog in heat, he will become aroused by her. However this "mounting behavior" more often has its roots in the expression of dominance and may be expressed by a neutered male in a variety of circumstances that are not motivated by sexuality

Why Breeders must Show their Dogs

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 15:29:35 -0400

If the aim of breeding dogs is to improve the stock then one of the responsibilities of breeders is to exhibit their stock in a forum where they can see and be seen. Only by showing others what we have can we objectively assess our own stock and compare it to other lines. Dog shows provide such a forum. Dog shows are where breeders and other enthusiasts come together and exchange ideas, educate one another and gain practical knowledge and information on their breeds. It’s not just about showing to win.
Foremost, we go to dog shows to be judged. However, people who assume that championships and show wins are guarantees of quality are only partially correct. Paramount to good breeding is health and genetics. Pedigrees alone don’t tell you much with regard to improving breeding lines unless a number of other factors are known including: colour; weight; congenital deformities in the litters; dimensions of skull and muzzle; familial diseases and temperament of dam and sire.
The simple reason why breeders should exhibit their dogs is so that they can objectively assess their and other’s breeding stock. You can not reasonably assess your breeding stock if you have nothing to compare it to. You must physically examine the other dogs. Pictures, videos and text articles outlining standards that are all valuable components to learning but can not replace the real McCoy. Picture and video can hide as much as they highlight. You can not truly know about structure and balance or gaiting from reading a book. You have to see it and feel it yourself. Grooming and expert handling also hide faults that can not be discovered without the opportunity to actually go over the dog yourself. You will not be able to tell your show puppies from the companion puppies. More important is that you will be better aware of what the breed standard means if for no one else than your self.
Dog shows provide an opportunity for breeders to meet other breeders. There is much to learn from others experience. Consider a medical issue that your line has been fortunate enough to not experience and all of a sudden it becomes an issue. Other breeders may have the knowledge that your experiences simply has not come across and save you your valuable time and effort. There is always another viewpoint to hear and incorporate, or condemn, in your own breeding program.
Dog shows are where breeders showcase their stud dogs. At a show you can meet a potential sire, get your hands on the dog and assess it for yourself. You can hear first hand from the breeder or his agent on how the stud dog has been producing. The conversation inevitably leads to valuable points of view that enhance your breed education. The pictures you have seen and word of mouth that you have heard may not do the stud dog justice. Now you can see for yourself.
Dog shows also provide an opportunity for the breeder to showcase their breeding stock. This is essential for other breeders so that they can do their own comparison. Showing your dogs is also advertising for your kennel. It brings awareness to the public and is educational for breed awareness.
A tell tale sign of a breeder who breeds in isolation or with little regard for the betterment of the breed are those pedigrees that indicate few, if any, champions, especially from the breeders stock. Pedigrees without champions may suggest a motive for breeding other than for betterment of the breed.
Let’s not forget the judge at the dog show. The judge’s comments can be an education if you are interested. Some judges are willing to point out your dog’s attributes and faults if you ask. Here is another experienced, educated eye to view our dog’s structure and movement.
Perhaps best of all, dog shows bring people together with the passion of the dog fancy. It is an opportunity for socialization of both you and your dogs. It is an opportunity to network. It is an opportunity to broaden your mind and your breeding education by asking questions.
Conclusion: If breeders don’t participate in the forum of dog shows they cannot reasonably assess their own stock, let alone others. They will be unable to see faults in their own dogs since they have nothing to compare with. They will have to guess on potential stud dogs suitability for their breeding or simply use outside studs blindly. Showing dogs is not just about competing and winning but about comparison and education and ultimately doing what is best for the breed.
Victor Sattler

Crate Training

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 15:27:31 -0400

How to Crate Train your Puppy

Introduction
Providing your puppy or dog with an indoor kennel crate can satisfy many dogs' need for a den-like enclosure. Besides being an effective housebreaking tool (because it takes advantage of the dog's natural reluctance to soil its sleeping place), it can also help to reduce separation anxiety, to prevent destructive behavior (such as chewing furniture), to keep a puppy away from potentially dangerous household items (i.e., poisons, electrical wires, etc.), and to serve as a mobile indoor dog house which can be moved from room to room whenever necessary.
A crate also serves as a travel cabin for you dog when traveling by car or plane. Additionally, most hotels that accept dogs on their premises require them to be crated while in the room to prevent damage to hotel furniture and rugs.
Most dogs that have been introduced to the crate while still young grows up to prefer his/her crate to rest in or "hang-out" in. Therefore a crate (or any other area of confinement) should NEVER be used for the purpose of punishment.
We recommend that you provide a crate for at least the first two years of your dog’s life. We actually provide crates throughout our dog's entire lifetime. Some crates allow for the removal of the door once it is no longer necessary for the purpose of training. The crate can be placed under a table, or a table top can be put on top of it to make it both unobtrusive and useful.
Preparing the Crate
Your puppy may have been introduced to crate training at the breeder's. Leave the crate door open. For wire crates the crate should come with a floor pan. Place a piece of cardboard or a towel between the floor (or crate bottom) and the floor pan in order to keep it from rattling.
Furnishing Your Puppy's Crate
Toys and Treats: Place your puppy's favorite toys and dog treats at the far end opposite the door opening. These toys may include the ‘Kong’, a plush toy or braided rope. Toys and bails should always be inedible and large enough to prevent their being swallowed. Plastic toys are not recommended. Any fragmented toys should be removed to prevent choking and internal obstruction.
Water: A crate cup or a small hamster-type water dispenser with ice water should be attached to the crate if your puppy is to be confined for more than two hours in the crate or the temperatures are rather warm.
Bedding: Place a crate pad, towel or blanket inside the crate to create a soft, comfortable bed for the puppy. If the puppy chews the bedding, remove it to prevent the pup from swallowing or choking on the pieces. Although most puppies prefer lying on soft bedding, some may prefer to rest on a hard, flat surface, and may push the bedding to one end of the crate to avoid it. If the puppy repeatedly urinates on the bedding, remove the bedding until the pup no longer eliminates in the crate.
Location of the Crate
When possible, place the crate near or next to you when you are at home. This will encourage the pup to go inside it without his feeling lonely or isolated when you go out. A central room in the house (i.e.: living room or kitchen) or a large hallway near the entrance is a good place to crate your puppy.
Introducing the Crate to Your Puppy
In order that your puppy associate his/her kennel crate with comfort, security and enjoyment, we suggest the following guidelines:
1. Occasionally throughout the day, drop small pieces of kibble or dog biscuits in the crate. While investigating his new crate, the pup will discover edible treasures, thereby reinforcing his positive associations with the crate. You may also feed him in the crate to create the same effect. If the dog hesitates, it often works to feed him in front of the crate, then right inside the doorway and then, finally, in the back of the crate.
2. In the beginning, praise and pet your pup when he enters. Do not try to push, pull or force the puppy into the crate. At this early stage of introduction only inductive methods are suggested. Overnight exception: You may need to place your pup in his crate and shut the door upon retiring. (In most cases, the crate should be placed next to your bed overnight. If this is not possible, the crate can be placed in the kitchen, bathroom or living room.)
3. You may also play this enjoyable and educational game with your pup or dog: without alerting your puppy, drop a small dog biscuit into the crate. Then call your puppy and say to him, "Where's the biscuit? It's in your crate." Using only a friendly, encouraging voice, direct your pup toward his crate. When the puppy discovers the treat, give enthusiastic praise. The biscuit will automatically serve as a primary reward. Your pup should be free to leave its crate at all times during this game. Later on, your puppy's toy or ball can be substituted for the treat.
4. It is advisable first to crate your pup for short periods of time while you are home with him. In fact, crate training is best accomplished while you are in the room with your dog. Getting him used to your absence from the room in which he is crated is a good first step. This prevents an association being made with the crate and your leaving him/her alone.
A Note About Crating Puppies
Puppies under 4 months of age have little bladder or sphincter control. Puppies under 3 months have even less.
Important Reminders
1. Collars: Always remove your puppy or dog's collar before confining in the crate. Even flat buckle collars can occasionally get struck on the bars or wire mesh of a crate. If you must leave a collar on the pup when you crate him (e.g.: for his identification tag), use a safety "break away" collar.
2. Warm Weather: Do not crate a puppy or dog when temperatures reach an uncomfortable level. This is especially true for the short-muzzled (Pugs, Pekes, Bulldogs, etc.) and the Arctic or thick-coated breeds (Malamutes, Huskies, Akitas, Newfoundlanders, etc.). Cold water should always be available to puppies, especially during warm weather. [Never leave an unsupervised dog on a terrace, roof or inside a car during warm weather. Also, keep outdoor exercise periods brief until the hot weather subsides.]
3. Be certain that your puppy has fully eliminated shortly before being crated. Be sure that the crate you are using is not too large to discourage your pup from eliminating in it. Rarely does a pup or dog eliminate in the crate if it is properly sized and the dog is an appropriate age to be crated a given amount of time. If your pup/dog continues to eliminate in the crate, the following may be the causes:
a.     The pup has a poor or rich diet, or very large meals.
b.      The pup did not eliminate prior to being confined.
c.       The pup has worms.
d.        The pup has gaseous or loose stools.
e.        The pup drank large amounts of water prior to being crated.
f.     The pup/dog is suffering from a health condition or illness (i.e., bladder infection, prostate problem, etc.
g.    The puppy or dog is experiencing severe separation anxiety when left alone.
Accidents In The Crate
If your puppy messes in his crate while you are out, do not punish him upon your return. Simply wash out the crate with a pet odor neutralizer (such as Nature's Miracle, Nilodor, or Outright). Do not use ammonia-based products, as their odor resembles urine and may draw your dog back to urinate in the same spot again.
The Crate As Punishment

NEVER use the crate as a form of punishment or reprimand for your puppy or dog. This simply causes the dog to fear and resent the crate. If correctly introduced to his crate, your puppy should be happy to go into his crate at any time. You may however use the crate as a brief time-out for your puppy as a way of discouraging nipping or excessive rowdiness.
[NOTE: Sufficient daily exercise is important for healthy puppies and dogs. Regular daily walks should be offered as soon as a puppy is fully immunized. Backyard exercise is not enough!]
Children And The Crate
Do not allow children to play in your dog's crate or to handle your dog while puppy is in the crate. The crate is your dog's private sanctuary. Puppy’s rights to privacy should always be respected.
Barking In The Crate
In most cases a pup that cries incessantly in his crate has either been crated too soon (without taking the proper steps as outlined above) or is suffering from separation anxiety and is anxious about being left alone. Some pups may simply be under exercised. Others may not have enough attention paid to them. Some breeds of dog may be particularly vocal. These dogs may need the "Alternate Method of Confining Your Dog", along with increasing the amount of exercise and play your dog receives daily.
When Not To Use A Crate
Do not crate your puppy or dog if:
s/he has diarrhea. Diarrhea can be caused by: worms, illness, intestinal upset such as colitis, too much and/or the wrong kinds of food, quick changes in the dogs diet, or stress, fear or anxiety.
s/he is vomiting.
you must leave him/her crated for more than the Crating Duration Guidelines suggest.
s/he has not eliminated shortly before being placed inside the crate.
the temperature is excessively high.
s/he has not had sufficient exercise, companionship and socialization.
The Cost of Not Buying a Crate
The cost of not using a crate:
your shoes;
books;
table legs;
chairs and sofas;
throw rugs and carpet, and
electric, telephone and computer wires.
The real cost, however, is your dog's safety and your peace of mind.   Alternative Method of Confining Your Puppy
There are alternative methods to crating very young puppies and puppies that must be left alone in the house for lengths of time exceeding the recommended maximum duration of confinement. We suggest the following. Use a small to medium-sized room space such as a kitchen, large bathroom or hallway with non-porous floor. Set up the crate on one end, the food and water a few feet away, and some newspaper (approx. 2'x3' to 3'x3') using a 3 to 4 layer thickness, several feet away. Confine your puppy to this room or area using a 3 ft. high, safety-approved child's gate rather than shutting off the opening by a solid door. Your pup will feel less isolated if it can see out beyond its immediate place of confinement. Puppy proof the area by removing any dangerous objects or substances.

Retained Deciduous Teeth (Puppy Teeth)

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 15:24:42 -0400

Left is is a retained deciduous tooth. Normally the (baby) deciduous tooth's root is resorbed, making room for an adult tooth. Then the baby tooth falls out. Should this fail, the adult tooth may deviate from it's normal position, producing malocclusion. The resulting double set of teeth overcrowds the dental arch, causing food to become trapped between the teeth, leading to early periodontal disease. A double set of roots may also prevent normal development of the socket, and erode periodontal support around the adult tooth, resulting in early tooth loss. A retained deciduous tooth should be extracted as soon as an adult tooth is noted in the same area as the baby tooth. If extraction is performed early, the abnormally positioned adult tooth usually moves to its normal location.

Vaccinations

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 14:07:18 -0400

Revised: November 23, 2007
For years, the pricing structure of veterinarians has misled clients into thinking that the inherent value of an annual office visit was in the "shots." The value is in the physical exam of your companion. Twelve months of your pet’s life is equivalent to approximately 7 years for you and I. We take our children to the pediatrician more than every 7 years. Hopefully we see our own M.D. more often than every 7 years for a physical. Most men over 40 know their blood pressure and their cholesterol levels. Most women over 40 have a mammogram. The point is early detection of treatable diseases can provide a longer and higher quality of life for our beloved family member, our dogs.

Vaccines are not harmless. Avoiding unnecessary vaccinations can minimize unnecessary side effects and adverse events. Our dogs now have access to the best medical care in the history of veterinary medicine. Following the initial puppy immunization series, dogs should be boostered one year later and then every three years thereafter. However an annual check-up is always a good practice to assess the general health of your dog. We do a “titers test” which checks the levels of immunization to ensure that we are not over vaccinating our dogs. For adults over 7 years of age chances are there is no need to vaccinate the dog any more since the immunization levels should be more than adequate, and in fact unnecessary. We recommend a "titers test" to see the levels of immunization that your dog has built up over his lifetime. This should simply confirms that vaccination is no longer necessary.

According to the most recent studies, the findings of which are supported by the American Animal Hospital Association, the American Association of Feline Practitioners, and 22 Schools of Veterinary Medicine, the duration of immunity for vaccines for diseases like rabies, distemper, and parvovirus have been shown to be 7 years. More importantly it has been scientifically proven that, after the initial series, when vaccines are re-administered the immune status of the patient is not enhanced. Antibodies from the initial vaccine block the subsequent vaccines from having any effect. Although the true interval at which re-administration of Rabies, Distemper, Parvovirus, Adenovirus and Para influenza vaccinations will enhance the immunity in a significant number of dogs has not been determined, an arbitrary compromise interval of every three years has been agreed upon. It is the consensus of immunologists and experts that the duration of immunity is much longer and probably the life of the patient. This three-year compromise interval will greatly reduce the number of antigens administered, and therefore the risk of adverse reactions, while providing the most complete protection against preventable diseases possible.

We subscribe to the Small Animal Vaccination Protocol of the Colorado State University Veterinary Teaching Hospital. (See http://csuvets.colostate.edu/savp2.htm and http://www.critteradvocacy.org/) Your vet should be very knowledgably on the geographical risks of your environment to your dog and suggest other vaccines as appropriate. Based on the protocol above, we suggest the following:

"Core" Recommended Vaccinations

RABIES: Wait until puppy is 6 months old before puppy receives a rabies vaccination. One-year later puppy should get a second rabies shot but this should be a three-year rabies vaccination vice the more common annual rabies shot. This is to protect your puppy from over immunization. Rabies vaccinations should not be given in conjunction with any other vaccines. The suggested period is two weeks between shots. Use only killed rabies, highly aduvanted. 
DISTEMPER AND PARVOVIRUS: The puppy shot series provides lifelong immunity for these viruses. Use the modified live virus. 
HEPATITIS (Adenovirus)-(CAV2): This is one of the agents known to cause “kennel cough”. Only Vaccines with CAV 2 should be used as CAV-1 carries the risk of “hepatitis blue-eye”. Use the modified live virus. 
BORDETELLA – PARAINFLUENZA: Commonly called "kennel cough," this vaccine is recommended only for those dogs in obedience training, boarded, groomed, taken to dog shows, or for any reason housed where exposed to a lot of dogs. The intranasal vaccine provides more rapid onset of immunity with less chance of reaction. Immunity requires 72 hours and does not protect from every cause of "kennel cough" or every serovar of bordetella. Immunity to bordetella is of short duration (4-6 months), so vaccination should be repeated as needed. Use the intranasal application. 
HEARTWORM: There are a great number of heartworm preventative medicines available. We have found that “REVOLUTION” has had particularly good results with our dogs. It also protects against fleas, ticks, ear mites and a host of other common parasites. Consult your vet.
"Non Core" Not Recommended Vaccinations
CANINE CORONA VIRUS: Canine corona virus is only a disease of puppies less than six weeks of age. It is a rare, self-limiting disease (i.e. dogs get well in 3 days without treatment). Corona virus does not cause disease in adult dogs. TAMU, Colorado State, University of California at Davis, Cornell University and Texas A&M University have only diagnosed one case each in the last 7 years. For a veterinarian to make a diagnosis of Corona Virus based on clinical signs is highly presumptive. Only electron microscopy of feces can verify the presence of canine corona virus. This is only done at places such as Texas A & M Diagnostic Laboratory, and they report no positive tests. The presence of the virus does not indicate it is the cause of disease. Dogs over 6 wks of age cannot be experimentally induced to exhibit disease from corona virus. This is age related immunity. Immunologists have reason to believe that the vaccine does not work. We see no justification for the use of corona virus vaccine. 
LEPTOSPIROSIS: Owing to recent severe adverse reactions in puppy Norfolk and Norwich Terriers, we request that you refrain from administering leptospirosis vaccine until your puppy reaches adulthood (+1 year old) and then only if it is a risk in your area (currently includes Michigan, Wisconsin and Ohio). The risks of side effects outweigh the benefits. Please be sure to tell your veterinarian when you make the appointment and again at the visit. Leptospirosis is a common cause of adverse reactions in dogs ranging from life threatening anaphylactic reactions to mild facial swelling and urticaria. It is an infection of the kidneys and liver. Dogs and people get it from contact with urine from rats, raccoons, cows and pigs. The risk of contagion from dogs to humans is very low. There is considerable debate among veterinarians whether this vaccine is effective at all.
LYME BORRELIOSIS: Lyme vaccine is not considered a core vaccine because lyme is considered a limited, regional disease. There are concerns regarding immune-mediated complications from this vaccines use which have neither been substantiated or refuted to date. Lyme vaccine may give owners a false sense of security and make them lax regarding tick control in general, leaving animals at risk for other tick-borne diseases. We suggest using this only if you are in a high risk area.
GIARDIA: The Giardia vaccine will diminish oocyst shedding and possibly clinical signs associated with infection, but not the infection itself. The vaccine is not considered to be zoonotic, even though humans are commonly affected. Management, hygiene, and treatment (fenbendazole) are preferred control methods over vaccination. Giardia is not recommended as a core vaccine because:   1. Efficacy of Vaccine unsubstantiated by independent studies.  2. IgA mucosal antibodies? Immunity against a complex organism?  3. Natural infection does not provide immunity. 
Here are a number of links that are well worth surfing
Special Report of the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) Canine Vaccine Task Force: 2003 Canine Vaccine Guidelines, Recommendations, and Supporting Literature http://www.dogs4sale.com.au/AAHA_Special_Report.htm  Short Summary of Special Report of the AAHA preceeding  http://www.woodhavenlabs.com/vaccines-2003.html  Colorado State University's Small Animal Vaccination Protocol  http://csuvets.colostate.edu/savp2.htm  Vaccination of Small Animals At Washington State University  http://www.vetmed.wsu.edu/rdvm/vaccine.asp  University of California at Davis VMTH Canine and Feline Vaccination Guidelines  http://www.vmth.ucdavis.edu/vmth/clientinfo/info/genmed/vaccinproto.html  From DVM Magazine, the News Magazine of Veterinary Medicine  http://www.dvmnewsmagazine.com/dvm/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=61687   Article by W. Jean Dodds, DVM on Vaccine Protocols for Dogs  http://www.canine-epilepsy-guardian-angels.com/chang_vac.htm  http://www.doglogic.com/vaccination.htm- vaccine schedule  Vaccine Protocols recommended by Dr. Bob Rogers, DVM  http://www.critteradvocacy.org/  http://critterfixer.com  http://www.northernlight-uk.com/cyd_11.htm New Vaccination Immunology: New Protocols - summary of the "critterfixer" info  "The Vaccination Web Site for Dogs and Cats" Richard B. Ford, DVM, MS - North Carolina State University  http://www.dvmvac.com/  "The Vaccine Controversy" Susan Thorpe Vargas MS, Ph.D  http://www.msu.edu/~silvar/vax.htm

What is the Biologically Appropriate Raw Food Diet (BARF)

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 14:00:31 -0400

The BARF diet refers to a diet fed to dogs, which totally excludes all types of commercial dog food. It premises itself on:
1.       A dog’s food should never be cooked. It should be fed in a raw natural state like nature intended. Cooking a dog’s food ruins most of the nutritional value.
2.       Dogs should have access to raw meaty bones. These clean their teeth, work and develop their neck and jaw muscles and the chewing action prepares their stomach for the incoming food mass. Chewing bones also slows down the eating process considerably, making it far harder for a dog to overeat.
3.       Dog foods have cereals as their main ingredient. The main ingredient your dog should be eating is raw meaty bones. It is these cereals that cause a range of problems such as allergies.
4.       Commercial dog foods are laden with preservatives, food colours and salt. They have additives so that the food will taste better so that the dogs will overeat.
BARF diet advocates will tell you that their experience has indicated:
1.       No doggy odour.
2.       Naturally clean teeth – no need for toothbrushes, de- scaling or gum disease.
3.         The time it takes for a dog to chew a raw meaty bone gives their stomach adequate time to get the acids moving.
4.       Much less stool is produced and they are firm.

5.       Decreased or non-existent vet bills…your dogs are healthier.
6.       Less cost for dog food – commercial dog foods, especially the ones claiming to be all natural can be expensive.
7.       Mirrors what a dog would be getting in the wild - even the modern day dog has the same digestive system as his ancestors.
8.       Puppies develop at a more even rate – and quick growth spurts are avoided.
9.       The ripping and chewing involved in eating raw meaty bones develops the jaw, neck, and shoulders muscles.
For more information read “Give your Dog a Bone” by Dr. Ian Billinghurst or “The Ultimate Diet: Natural Nutrition for Dogs and Cats” by Kymythy Schultze.
Links to BARF Sites
Have a look at these sites for some basic advice:
http://www.njboxers.com/faqs.htm - All the frequently asked questions answered
http://www.4loveofdog.com/menu.htm
http://www.canismajor.com/dog/barf.html
http://www.naturalrearing.com/J_In_Learning/Intro.htm
http://www3.sympatico.ca/glenamadda/BARFIntro.html